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攀岩训练中的一些问题解析:训练过量后该如何

彦刚分享

  我们都知道攀岩训练很苦,时间长了,人的情绪或精神会发生一些很奇怪的事情,是训练过量吗?我们该怎么做才能恢复正常状态呢?下面学习啦小编带你了解一下吧。

  攀岩训练中的一些问题解析:训练过量后该如何

  在讨论这个问题前,让我们先看看这种情况发生的可能性吧-其实你根本就没有训练过量。我觉得大多有训练过量症状的攀岩者所做的运动量实际上并没有超过他们身体所能承受的极限,而是因为训练方式的一成不变而造成的。你总是在同一个岩壁,同一类型的岩石,同一场景下做着相同的训练吗?如果是这样的话,在你采取措施像多休息来治疗训练过量之前,请先尝试做一些不同的运动。想象一下你通常的攀登路线,然后对其稍作改变在攀登。

  然而,如果你确定你的运动方式正确,身体也能按你意愿而动,那可能就是你的运动量过大了。但这种情况在业余爱好者中是很少见的,如果出现可采取以下三种措施:

  (一):查清出现运动过量症状的真正原因,像睡眠不足,饮食不善,攀岩工具单一,热身活动效果差等等。如果你打算进行一些超负荷训练,就要比以往更加注意上述因素。

  (二):与其休息,不如对训练负荷稍作调整,具体量可根据个体情况而决定。一旦出现训练过量现象,有的运动员可能需要两三天休息调整,有的则只需要在一两天内减少运动量而已。

  不过请记住停下来休息只是做到一半-不要忘了减轻身体和心理上的压力,放松自己,好好吃,好好休息,换个环境,给你身体恢复的机会。

  (三)细水长流,慢登高峰。如果你已经不间断刻苦训练很多周了,即使你清楚自己身体很健康,只是有点疲惫罢了,但或许你的身体会发出信号告诉你如果继续这种强度的话,身体就会出现问题。记住。一定要按以下的做:接下来几周减少训练量,给自己比平时更多的时间休息,更多的去练习技巧,各种各样的攀岩技巧,而不是一味的体能训练,这样才能出成绩。有时候,攀岩者犯得最大错误就是休息不足。你可能感觉运动量一下降辛辛苦苦训练来的东西就会丧失,但只要你的攀岩是规范的,能发生的只是你身体从低迷的状态中恢复过来,而且较之前更强大。时间会给你完成计划的机会,但偶尔的暂时忘记训练,把它当成终生的项目。

  Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?

  攀爬就是最佳的攀岩训练方法吗?

  It‘s an old adage that “climbing is the best training for climbing,” and many climbers lean on this line as an excuse for not engaging in any training activities outside of climbing itself. Let’s examine this precept and determine, once and for all, if it is valid.

  有句流行的说法“攀爬就是最好的攀岩训练”许多攀岩者依着这个籍口不去做任何攀岩之外的训练活动。让我们检查鉴定一下是否是肯定的,如果这是有效的话。

  When I am asked the question “Is climbing the best training for climbing”, my canned answer is--“it depends.” This is because the best type of training for a given climber depends on his or her current strengths and weaknesses as well as current absolute climbing ability. For instance, in terms of improving climbing technique and mental skills, no amount of strength training will produce direct improvements in these areas. However, for developing sport-specific strength (i.e. conditioning to improve grip strength, lock-off ability, and endurance of upper body strength), simply “climbing for training” will produce limited results and only slow (or no) improvement from year to year. Sound familiar?

  当我被问道“攀爬是最好的攀岩训练吗?”我都会这样回答“看情况”。这是因为对特定的攀岩者最好的训练类型是依据他或她目前的优势与短处以及目前的绝对攀爬能力。举个例子,谈到关于改进攀岩技巧与心理技巧,力量训练不会在这些领域产生直接的改进。然而,对发展特定运动力量(例如训练提高抓握力量,锁定力和上身耐力)简单地“攀爬作为训练”是只能产生很有限的作用,或一年年地缓慢进展。这些话,是不是似曾听说?

  One reason that climbing is not the best method of strength training is because the ultimate goals of “training” versus “climbing” are very different. For instance, the goal in climbing is to avoid muscular failure at all costs and, hopefully, reach the top of a boulder problem or climb before the arm and forearm muscles pump out. CONVERSEly, when training for climbing it is often best to exercise at the highest possible intensity and produce muscular failure in a few minutes, if not a few seconds. Summarizing--in climbing, you strive to avoid failure; in training, you tend to pursue failure.

  说攀爬不是最佳的力量训练方法,原因之一是因为“训练”对比“攀岩”的最终目标是非常不一样的。举例说吧,攀爬的目的是想方设法避免肌肉力竭,在手臂和前臂肌肉力竭前有希望到达顶点。相反地,为攀岩的训练通常是在几秒或几分钟内做最高的可能达到的强度产生肌肉力竭会是最好的练习。总结来说,在攀岩,你是努力避免失败;而在训练,你是趋向产生失败。

  Another example that underscores the difference between climbing and training for climbing is the way in which you grip the rock. In climbing, the rock dictates a random use of many different grip positions and, at times, you may even deliberately vary the way you grip the rock. As a result, it‘s unlikely that any single grip position will ever get worked maximally and, therefore, the individual grip positions (e.g. crimp, open hand, pinch, etc.) are slow to increase strength. This should help you understand why a full season of climbing may indeed improve your anaerobic endurance (i.e. endurance of strength), but do little to increase you absolute maximum grip strength. Therefore, varying grip positions is a great strategy for maximizing endurance when climbing for performance, but it stinks for training maximum grip strength. Effective finger strength training demands you target a specific grip position and work it until failure (See HIT Workouts ).

  另外一个能揭示攀岩和训练有所区别的例子在于你抓握岩石的方式。在攀岩中,岩石意味着在一些不同的抓握姿势中的一个随机的使用,有时候,你可能甚至故意变化你抓握岩石的方式。结果是,任何单一的抓握姿势不大可能达到最大效力,因此,某个抓握姿势(例如,crimp,open hand,pinch等)只是缓慢增加力量。这会帮助你理解为什么一个全年攀岩者可能确实需要增加你的无氧耐力(例如力量的持久力),但较少去增加你的绝对最大抓握力量。因此,改变不同的抓握姿势达到最大化耐力在为了成绩攀岩的时候是一个很好的策略,但对于训练最大的抓握力会是一个差的主意。有效率的手指力量训练需要你确定一个明确的抓握姿势位为目标,去做直到力竭。(见HIT Workouts )

  As a final note, it may be best for some climbers to engage in physical conditioning that is not sport-specific in nature. For example, an overweight individual would be better off spending their non-climbing training time performing aerobic exercise (and, of course, improve their dietary surveillance) rather than sport-specific climbing exercises. Likewise, some “way out-of-shape” individual (i.e. unable to do even a few pull-ups, push-ups, abdominal crunches, etc.) would be better off engaging in a period of standard circuit training to improve general conditioning.

  最后一点,对一些攀岩者来说,进行不是运动专项的自然的体能训练可能是最好的。例如,一个体重超重的人花在非攀岩训练上的有氧运动(当然,也要改善他们的饮食控制)会比运动专项的攀岩练习要好。同样的,一些“没有体型”的个人(例如,甚至不能做几个引体,俯卧撑,仰卧起坐等)进行一段时期的为改善整体身体状况的标准训练循环会好起来的。

  In the final analysis, if you are serious about climbing performance you must not be satisfied simply “climbing for training”, nor can you mindless adhere to old adages or train in the flawed ways as most other climbers do. Becoming the best (and strongest) climber possible demands that you become a knowledgeable self-coach and thoughtful practitioner of “training for climbing.”

  最后分析,如果你很在在意攀岩的表现成绩,你千万不要满足简单的“攀岩就是训练”,你也不能不加思考地追随老的信条或和其他大多数攀岩者一样在一种有缺陷的方式下进行训练。要成为一个最佳(和最强的)的攀岩者可能要求你要成为一个有知识的自我教练和充分思考的“攀岩训练”的从业者。


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